(click on the pictorial at the bottom of this page to see how these axes are made)
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sheaths with copper rivets
Ranging from a 4lb axe to 1lb hatchet
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Hatchet made from wood rasp
Hand made leather sheaths
Celtic Forrest Axe
Camp Axe
Celtic Forrest Axe
After heat treatment and acid etch.
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Celtic Camp Axe
2lb axe with 18' handle
Tomahawk
3.5lb axe
tomahawk
2.5 lb axe
firemans axe from wood rasp
firemans axe from wood rasp

Below is a pictoral of how pre-industrial axes were made.  This is essentially how each of my axes are forged. Click picture to open.

layed out
layed out

This is what I start with. 1.5" X .5" flat mild steel. Middle section is 1" (makes the poll, or non-sharp end) 2, 1.5" sections on either side of that make the langets (or cheeks) that sandwich the hatchet handle. The 2 outside sections are 2". These get forge welded together after folding to make the tapered section that leads to the sharp edge of the hatchet. Punch marks inform me where to hammer... they don't burn off.

first shoulder
first shoulder

Hammered the corner of the anvil perpendicular to the bar, to begin isolating material for the cheeks. This technique is called "shouldering".

1.5 lb hatchet head with a 16" hickory handle. Great for kindling, mild splitting, chopping branches, and shaping wood. The handle is burned to help preserve the wood and heat it up so the linseed oil penetrates the wood deeper.

layed out
layed out

This is what I start with. 1.5" X .5" flat mild steel. Middle section is 1" (makes the poll, or non-sharp end) 2, 1.5" sections on either side of that make the langets (or cheeks) that sandwich the hatchet handle. The 2 outside sections are 2". These get forge welded together after folding to make the tapered section that leads to the sharp edge of the hatchet. Punch marks inform me where to hammer... they don't burn off.

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